The first thing that came to mind when I tasted Bollinger Special Cuvée was Natasha Rostova's first ball in War and Peace.

I wasn't expecting that association, but it came to me immediately.

The tiny bubbles rose in neat little lines, like tin soldiers marching in formation. There were apples, pears and brioche in the taste. As the Champagne opened up, a delicate scent of expensive wood appeared.

And yet, for all that richness, the wine felt almost weightless.

I kept thinking about Natasha's first dance with Prince Andrei. The excitement of the ballroom, the music, the moment when she stops worrying and simply lets herself be carried away.

That's what stayed with me about this Champagne. So many different impressions, but nothing felt heavy. Everything seemed to move together, effortlessly.

Perhaps that's why the scene appeared in my mind before I could even explain the wine to myself.

Wine is never just wine. Sometimes a glass of Champagne takes you to a ball you never attended.